What are the Best Conditions for Brilliant Fall Colors?

Also important in the quality of a leaf color season is another chemical in leaves called auxin. Auxin controls a special band of cells at the base of each leaf stem, called the abscission (cutting away) layer. During the growing season, auxin prevents this layer from fully developing and blocking the tiny, internal tubes that connect each leaf to the rest of the tree's circulatory system. 

Babcock State Park

In fall, however, cooler and shorter days trigger an end to auxin production, allowing the abscission layer to grow and cut off the circulation of water, nutrients and sugar to the leaves. When this happens, chlorophyll disintegrates rapidly, letting carotenoids shine through as yellow and the anthocyanins as red. The color season ends when the abscission layer finally cuts the stem completely, and the leaf falls off. 

Babcock State Park

Tree Types and Color
Certain colors are characteristic of particular species. Oaks turn red, brown, or russet. In fact, in the absence of yellow or red pigments, oaks turn brownish due to another pigment–tannin. Hickories turn a deep golden bronze whereas aspen and yellow-poplar are golden yellow. Dogwood will turn purplish red and beech light tan. Sourwood and black tupelo are crimson. Maples differ according to species. Red maple turns brilliant scarlet; sugar maple, orange-red; and black maple, glowing yellow. Striped maple becomes almost colorless. Leaves of some species such as the elms simply shrivel up and fall off, exhibiting little color other than drab brown.

Babcock State Park

Best Conditions for Brilliant Fall Colors
Putting together all we’ve learned, what is the optimum scenario for a brilliant fall? The best weather for brilliant fall foliage is a growing season with ample moisture followed by a dry, cool and sunny autumn with warm days and cool but frostless nights. On the other hand, cloudy days, an early frost, strong winds, or heavy rains can all reduce the quality and length of the color season. In time, regardless of conditions, the brilliant leaves of autumn fade and fall to the ground. 

Dolly Sods: Northland Loop Trail

Which brings us to one last tidbit–why the season is called “fall.” The word fall comes from an Old English word feallan which means "to fall or to die.” The "fall of the leaf" was used to refer to the third season of the year when trees lost their leaves, but over time, the phrase was shortened to fall. Regardless of what we call the season, it’s a glorious time of year. Let’s hope the conditions are right this year for a brilliant fall!

Dolly Sods

Why Do Some Autumn Leaves Turn Red?

Why some leaves turn red or orange is not simple to explain. The red pigments in leaves are made by anthocyanins, which give color to such familiar fruits as cranberries, red apples, concord grapes, blueberries, cherries, strawberries, and plums. Red maples, sugar maples, white ash, pin oak, sassafras, and other trees owe their brilliant hues of red to anthocyanin. 

Highland Scenic Highway

For years red pigments were thought to be leftover pigments, too, just as the yellow pigments. But current research has shown otherwise. As observed by seasoned fall color watchers, no two autumns are identical. Each fall, leaves differ in color and intensity. For instance, why does a maple go yellow one year and red the next? Red is the wild card color. It is not left over after the green is gone. Federal and state forest service researchers have discovered that the red pigments are produced under certain conditions by leaves during the approach and beginning of autumn. But, the how and the why of red pigment production are not fully known. 

Highland Scenic Highway

Temperature and light leading up to and during the fall season seem to be important. This leads to the third overall factor involved in leaf color change–the weather. Two weather conditions that apparently stimulate the production of anthocyanins, the red pigment, are sunshine and cool nights. Sunny days in September and October trigger the making of anthocyanins, and improve the chances for brilliant red leaves. Conversely, a majority of overcast days stifle red pigment production and lead to more yellows and browns. Orange leaves, by the way, occur when both yellow and red pigments are present. 

Summit Lake

Cool but not freezing temperatures at night also promote red pigment production. The thinking is that chilly nights prevent the leaves from sending all the sugars they made during the day into the twig and therefore they get trapped in the leaves. These trapped sugars are the backbone of anthocyanin synthesis and thus boost the red pigment production. At some time, which varies year to year, the first frost and first freeze will occur. Freezing conditions destroy the leaf's ability to manufacture the red pigments. So an early frost means an early end to colorful foliage.

Summit Lake

"Best Conditions for Brilliant Fall Colors" in a post to follow.

Dolly Sods

Why Do Autumn Leaves Change Color: Part 1

Why do autumn leaves change color? What controls the change, and why are the colors so different from year to year? Though I am far from an expert, the following is what I have been able to learn about the subject. 

Highland Scenic Highway

Three Prime Factors
The reason autumn leaves change color is far from simple. Some factors are well known, but scientists admittedly do not have all the details. The three prime factors controlling the color change are: 1) Leaf pigments, 2) Amount of light, and 3) Weather conditions. The color palette of leaves consists of three main pigments: chlorophyll, carotenoids, and anthocyanin. 

Babcock State Park

Chlorophyll is the green pigment, so to speak, and is essential for plant growth. Chlorophyll is an exceptional substance that converts sunlight into food for plants in a process called photosynthesis. Using energy from sunlight, chlorophyll combines water and carbon dioxide to produce oxygen and sugars. The oxygen mingles with the air we breathe and helps to sustain human life, which depends upon oxygen. The sugars are sent from the leaf into the tree to help it live, grow, and reproduce.

Leaves remain green as long as chlorophyll is plentiful. But chlorophyll is not a stable compound; bright sunlight causes it to decompose. To maintain chlorophyll in their leaves, plants continuously produce it, which requires sunlight and warm temperatures. Therefore, during the summer, chlorophyll in leaves is continuously broken down and regenerated. The trees of summer owe their lush green leaves to the abundance of chlorophyll in their leaves, which is constantly being destroyed and renewed by the summer sun.

Swinging Bridge at Babcock State Park

Yellow, the Left-Over Color
This leads to the second major factor determining the color change–light. As fall approaches, the days shorten, the amount of sunlight wanes, and the air cools. Like an internal clock, shorter days signal leaves to begin to shut down their food production. The shorter days mean more chlorophyll dies than is replaced. As chlorophyll begins to die off, other leaf pigments, which are masked by the green of the chlorophyll, are revealed. 

Aspen at Summit Lake

Present in the leaves all summer long, shades of yellow from the carotenoids finally begin to show through. Carotenoids produce yellow, orange, and brown colors in such plants as corn, carrots, daffodils, rutabagas, buttercups, and bananas. Striped maple, birch, aspen, hickory, poplar, ash, and other trees glow in shades of deep gold to pale yellow because of the carotenoids in their leaves. Ironically, the beautiful yellows and golds of autumn leaves are colors left over after all the chlorophyll has died out.

Summit Lake near Richwood, WV

In a post to follow I’ll discuss why leaves turn red.
For more on this topic click Why Leaves Change Color

Exploring the Endless Wall Trail to Diamond Point and Beyond

The Endless Wall Trail was voted the #1 National Park Trail by readers of USA Today (Endless Wall Trail). And for good reasons. Many stunning vistas of the New River Gorge line the trail. In this post I will highlight the best overlooks and other points of interest in a 2.6 mile loop trail of the Endless Wall.

Endless Wall from Diamond Point

Start at the Fern Creek Parking Area (GPS: Lat. 38.06298, Long. -81.05682) on the Lansing-Edmond Road (County Road 82) just 1.3 miles from its intersection with U.S. 19. The Endless Wall Trail begins by meandering on a flat, well graveled path through a lovely hemlock forest. After a half-mile, it crosses Fern Creek and begins a gradual ascent through a rhododendron thicket. As the trail tops the hill, the Fern Buttress Overlook takes off to the right at the 2/3 mile mark. The vistas are somewhat obscured by trees, but the viewpoint still gives you a sense of the depth of the gorge. On the right (north) side of Fern Buttress, paths zigzag to the top of a steel ladder bolted to a rock, which climbers use to reach the bottom of the Endless Wall cliff.
 

Fern Buttress Climbing Ladder

From the Fern Buttress continue hiking the cliff top trail and look for various paths to the right leading to the cliff edge. These paths lead to small bare rock outcrops with a view to the gorge. My favorite spot on this section of the trail is a spot I call the Idol Point Overlook (GPS: Lat. 38.05408, Long. -81.06075), which sits about 1000 feet east of Fern Buttress. Named by rock climbers, Idol Point is a stunning overhanging rock point at the top of the cliff. It sits mid-way between the Fern Buttress and Diamond Point. 

Idol Point: Endless Wall

Probably the best viewpoints on the Endless Wall trail are at Diamond Point, which is about 0.9 miles from the trailhead. Diamond Point juts out into the gorge and offers sweeping vistas upstream and downstream. It’s a “must-see” view of the New River Gorge. If you’ve packed a sandwich, it’s a great lunch stop, too. 

Diamond Point Overlook

Upon leaving Diamond Point, the trail gradually slopes downhill for about 30 yards. At the base of the downhill stretch look for a sign indicating climbers’ access. This side path leads to another steel ladder that descends into a narrow cleft in the rock. Called the “Honeymooner’s Ladder,” it’s another point at which climbers can access the bottom of the cliffs. If it looks scary, it is! Phyllis and I climbed this ladder once, and once was enough for us! Even if you’re not a climber, though, these Endless Wall ladders are worth a look. 

Honeymooner's Ladder

After the Honeymooner’s Ladder, the trail continues on the cliff top and rises gradually. There are still side trails to the edge of the gorge, but they are not as numerous as prior to Diamond Point. There is, however, one roomy outcrop at the 1.4 mile mark, which was called Falcon Point (GPS: Lat. 38.05634, Long, -81.05242). The Falcon Point trail is no longer marked by a sign, but it’s easily identified by two small pine trees growing together in the middle of the trail. It’s worth a short side trip and has great views upstream and downstream. 

View from Falcon Point

The cliff-side portion of the Endless Wall Trail ends at the 1.75 mile mark at the Miner’s Ladder. Before turning left to follow the trail over a ridge, continue straight ahead for a short stretch to a viewpoint overlooking the gorge. The view downstream is obscured by a rock outcrop with a small pine tree growing on top of it, but the view upstream is grand. While here, check out the climbers’ access ladder in the middle of a rock cleft. 

View from Miner's Ladder

The easiest way back to the starting point is to finish the remainder of the Endless Wall Trail, which wanders downhill through trees and rhododendron for a third of a mile to trailhead parking for the east end of the Endless Wall Trail. From the parking area turn left onto the Lansing Edmond Road; walk a half mile back to the Fern Creek Parking Area, and you’ll be back at the start. You’ll have hiked a loop of 2.6 miles and enjoyed some of the best scenery the New River Gorge has to offer.

Miner's Ladder

Why I Don’t Worry About Goldenrod Allergies

Last Wednesday (Sept. 7, 2016) in Canaan Valley, Phyllis and I were awed by acres of Goldenrod gracing the slopes of the South Glade Run Crossing trail. We ambled through waist-high fields that glowed in both sun and shadow. And you know what? We didn’t sneeze, sniffle, or scratch our itchy eyes—not one time. We reveled in fields of gold without a hitch. That’s because Goldenrod is not to blame for allergy flare-ups. Ragweed is the real culprit. It’s estimated that 90% of pollen-induced allergies is due to ragweed. 

South Glade Run Crossing Trail

So why does Goldenrod get the blame? Probably because Ragweed and Goldenrod bloom at the same time of year—late summer and early fall. Since Goldenrod is by far the showier of the two plants, people notice Goldenrod and fault it for the allergies. Ragweed, on the other hand, is a small plant with a short stem of green or white blossoms. It’s not nearly as conspicuous. People see the bushy stems of Goldenrod covered with flowers and think pollen! 
 

South Glade Run Crossing Trail

Indeed, when inhaled, pollen from plants can cause allergic reactions. But the pollen from Goldenrod differs greatly from that of Ragweed. Plants employ pollen to reproduce, but rely on different modes of transport from plant to plant for pollination. Ragweed relies on air-borne pollen to reproduce. To be picked up by the air and wafted to another plant perhaps miles away, Ragweed pollen must be small and light-weight. There’s a numbers game, too. To increase the odds of pollination, a single Ragweed plant can produce up to a billion grains of pollen in one season. With the air so full of Ragweed pollen, those susceptible to allergies are bound to suffer.

Monarch Butterfly on Goldenrod

In contrast, the pollen of Goldenrod is much larger than Ragweed. It’s too large to be picked up and carried by the wind for any distance. Instead, Goldenrod relies on butterflies and bees to carry pollen from one plant to another. Being a more direct way of transportation, less pollen is needed. 

South Glade Run Crossing Trail

That’s why I don’t worry about Goldenrod allergies. Instead I enjoy fields of Goldenrod without fear. And so can you. As I mentioned at the start, there’s plenty of Goldenrod on the South Glade Run Crossing trail in Canaan Valley. See my post of September 2nd for more about this trail and how to enjoy it. South Glade Run Crossing Trail Post

For a Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge Trail map click this link: CVNWR Trail Map.  

Brush Creek Falls Trail: Short Hike to a Tall Waterfall

My jaw dropped the first time I saw Brush Creek Falls. I couldn’t believe such a lovely, large, and accessible waterfall had escaped my attention for so long. The falls span the width of Brush Creek and are about 33 feet high. A few smaller drops precede the main fall. The Brush Creek watershed is substantial and supports good flow in summer. While it begins as a shallow, meandering stream, Brush Creek swells to river size and cuts a 400-foot deep canyon by the time it reaches the falls. 

Brush Creek Falls

Twenty-four acres surrounding Brush Creek Falls are now managed by the State of West Virginia as part of Pipestem Resort State Park. To get to Brush Creek Falls from the Pipestem State Park entrance, take state Route 20 south 4.5 miles to the town of Speedway and turn right onto county Route 3 (Brush Creek Falls Road, GPS: Lat. 37.45632, Long. -81.01005). After 2.7 miles bear left on county Route 3 and descend 0.6 miles into the Brush Creek Gorge. Park at the picnic shelter just before the bridge crossing Brush Creek (GPS: Lat. 37.46478, Long. -81.06404).
 

Upper Brush Creek Falls

It’s an easy, though rocky, ¼ mile hike from the picnic shelter to the falls. The trail at this point may have been a wagon road serving grist and woolen mills operating at the site from 1851 to 1909. From relatively flat sandstone ledges, you can explore the top of the upper falls that hosts numerous small drops. 
 

Brush Creek Falls

And there’s a well-graded trail leading to the creek below the main falls. This trail is not the first one that you’ll come upon. Look for a second trail, which switches back at an abrupt angle to the left. It’s the easiest way down to creek level where you can explore the base of the falls. 

Brush Creek Falls

For Better Scenic Photographs, Frame Your Photo Naturally

You can also polish the look of your outdoor photographs with a simple composition technique called “framing.” Just as paintings and photographs are typically surrounded by wood or metal frames, a photographic image can be taken with natural borders or frames. For example, the image of an inlet at Summit Lake (a great fishing and hiking spot about 10 miles east of Richwood, WV) is encircled on the top and left side by an arch of autumn leaves that form a natural frame. Likewise shoots of green plants border the bottom of the image. These two borders envelope much of the image forming a natural frame. 

Babcock Grist Mill

I don’t know exactly why the eye is pleased by framing, but it generally is. I do know that natural frames seem to complete the image. Framing also draws attention to the subject of your image. The framing in the example photograph gently steers the eye across the image. Moving from left to right, the eye naturally drifts within the borders of the frames following the line of the lake inlet to the patch of wispy clouds. Just about anything can serve as an image frame. 

Summit Lake

Trees, limbs, shrubs, and rocks frame a lot of my photographs as shown in the image of the Grist Mill at Babcock. Windows, arches, and doorways can also work as frames. Two stone pillars form frames for my photo of the swinging bridge at Babcock. I believe that once you start looking for objects to frame your images, you’ll find them and use them to make your photographs more appealing.

Swinging Bridge at Babcock

Regardless of the type of camera you use, good composition will always improve your scenic photography. So remember these four composition tips: 1) Remember the Rule of Thirds, 2) Think in 3D, 3) Change the Point of View, and 4) Include Natural Frames. Landscape photographer Ansel Adams once said, “A good photograph is knowing where to stand.” Knowing the basics of photographic composition will help you choose a place to stand.