Nuttallburg: A Trip Back in Time

At Nuttallburg, deep in the New River Gorge, the National Park Service (NPS) has turned back the clock for you. Through federal grants, the NPS has restored the coal mine and town site of Nuttallburg and opened it for the public in 2011. The coal mine was first established by English entrepreneur John Nuttall in 1870 and became the second town in the New River Gorge to ship smokeless coal. Nuttallburg was a bustling mining community by the turn of the century, continuing to thrive under the direction of his heirs after Nuttall's death in 1897. In 1920 Nuttallburg gained national attention when the automobile industrialist Henry Ford took over the mines. He pioneered new engineering and management systems including a conveyor system called “button and rope.” Nevertheless, Ford’s innovations failed to thrive at Nuttallburg, and he sold his interests eight years later in 1928. 

Nuttallburg Tipple

Mining Site Restored

After passing through three different owners, the mine was finally closed in 1958. Mine structures began to decay, buildings collapsed leaving only their stone foundations behind, and a forest of trees and vines progressively concealed the disappearing town. However, due to the vision of NPS historical architect Richard Seegars, the NPS began a three phase program to restore the site. Phase I began in 2005 with the stabilization of the tipple. Phase II was directed toward refurbishing the conveyor and headhouse. Financed by funds from the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, the project was finished under Phase III which involved vegetation removal, the felling of more than 1200 trees, final structure stabilization, trail building, fencing and interpretative signs, and road renovations. Now, according to author Eve West, “Nuttallburg is considered one of West Virginia’s finest examples of an early-twentieth century coal-mining community and one of the best coal-related industrial sites.”

Nuttallburg Conveyor

To get to Nuttallburg from the Canyon Rim Visitor Center, drive north on US 19 0.3 miles to the next intersection and turn right onto Lansing-Edmond Road (County Route 5/82). Follow Lansing-Edmond Road (becomes CR 82) 6.0 miles to Winona. Turn right onto Keeneys Creek Road (CR 85/2), continue past the houses (do not cross the creek) as the road turns to gravel. Travel 4.1 miles to the main Nuttallburg parking area and restroom. Parking for disabled visitors is located an additional 0.1 miles beyond the main parking area. Due to the narrow, curvy access road, large RV’s are not recommended.

Beehive Coke Oven

The Tipple Trail

There are seven trails at Nuttallburg that rank from very easy to very difficult. The Tipple Trail ranks first in interest in my estimation. It’s an easy 0.6 mile trip. From the parking lot, you’ll pass the tipple and get good views of the imposing conveyor structure. It’s an impressive sight and quite an engineering feat as well. After passing the conveyor, the trail splits and encircles a long bay of beehive coke ovens. The lower split of the trail passes by the openings of the coke ovens. At the end of the coke ovens the trail circles around the foundation of the Company Store and returns to the tipple. 

Seldom Seen

Seldom Seen

At the Company Store a new trail takes off toward a place with an intriguing name, “Seldom Seen.” Seldom Seen served as a small residential community for some families of those employed at Nuttallburg. All that remains of the town now are a few foundation stones. It’s an easy 0.6 mile round trip.

Town Loop Trail

When back at the tipple, I recommend you take the Town Loop Trail (0.5 miles). As the name suggests, this trail loops through the old town and by several foundations. Because the town facilities were segregated, you’ll see the foundations of the white church and white schoolhouse as well as the remnants of a small home. 

Company Store

Keeny’s Creek Trail

For those who are looking for a longer hike, I suggest taking the Keeney’s Creek Trail (3.3 miles). This is a rail trail with a gentle 4% grade. This trail crosses under the conveyor and over several trestle bridges that offer spectacular views of the rugged cascades of Short Creek. Trail connections can be made from this trail to the Conveyor Trail and Town Loop Connector Trail.

Short Creek

Wherever you choose to explore Nuttallburg, you’ll find excellent interpretative signs complete with historic photos and informative explanations. Nuttallburg is a great place for history buffs and day hikers alike. For more information on the trails visit NPS Nuttallburg Trails.

Wildflowers on the Greenbrier River Trail: Part Two

The Greenbrier River Trail (GRT) is undoubtedly one of the best hiking and biking venues in West Virginia. But a closer look at the GRT reveals that there’s much more to being a traveler along this long and winding road through our State. For my wife, Phyllis, and me the main attraction is wildflowers. From the first bloodroot of spring to that last blossom of fall, we search the state for wildflowers and their hang-outs. The New River Gorge is a haven for spring wildflowers, but by summer we turn our attention elsewhere to maintain the hunt. Last July, on a tip by our friend Drema Morgan, a WV South writer and photographer, we headed out to the GRT. She reported seeing a Turk’s cap lily on the southern end of the trail. That was enough to send Phyllis and me out the door and down the road. After downloading a trail map, we decided to start at the North Caldwell trailhead at milepost 3. From Beckley it was an easy drive on I-64 East to Exit 169 at Lewisburg. From there we drove north on US 219 for ½ mile, turned east (right) onto Brush Road (Rt. 30), then, after ½ mile, continued onto Stone House Road (Rt. 38) for another three miles to the trailhead.

Deptford Pink

Wildflowers Aplenty

We had barely filled our backpacks with lunch, wildflower identification books, and photographic gear and taken a few steps out of the parking lot before some interesting flowers stopped us. The wildflowers, new to us, were everlasting peas of pink, white, and purple hues. The group of shocking pink blossoms stood out like stop signs inviting a look-see. Off to a promising start, we already felt good about summer wildflower hunting on the GRT. We weren’t disappointed. The wildflowers along the GRT were many and varied. Deptford pinks, delicate flower blossoms no bigger than the tip of your little finger, were sprinkled here and there along the trail. We also found other tiny beauties such as thimbleweed and a patch of wild lettuce. Continuing on our trek, early goldenrod caught our eyes as did some fresh joe-pye weed. A couple of my favorites, tall coreopsis and early goldenrod, glowed brightly in the sun, showing off their rich golden hues. Bouncing bet, St. Johnswort, and garden phlox lined the trail, too. 

Basil Balm

One and a Half Miles and 21 Wildflowers 

Besides enjoying some of our favorite wildflowers, blooms we had not identified before popped up to challenge us. We spent a good bit of time with wildflower identification books in hand hunched over a flamboyant dark purple and white flower. While Phyllis thumbed through the pages, I rolled on the ground trying to photograph this mystery plant. After mulling it over, we thought it fit the description of showy skullcap. Heads bobbing side-to-side scanning for more flowers, we continued walking slowly upriver. Being a rail trail the grade was slight—barely noticeable. The fine limestone gravel surface made the hiking easy, too. The only holdup to hiking were the wildflowers, many new to us, which we stopped to identify. After hiking only 1 ½ miles on the GRT, we had already listed 21 wildflowers. Our hike on the GRT was fast becoming a stroll through a long and narrow wildflower garden. But we were still looking for the prize, wildflower number 22, the Turk’s cap lily that Drema said she had spotted on the trail. 

Showy Skullcap

The Prize Arrives

We found the prize right where Drema said it would be—at the tent campsite at mile marker 4.7. The promised Turk’s cap lilies glowed in the sun like orange-gold light bulbs. Even if wildflowers don’t interest you much, the shear brilliance of Turk’s cap lilies is bound to delight. The lilies capped off a pleasant wildflower jaunt on the GRT. We doubled back at this point and enjoyed a second look at the wildflower display along the trail. As just amateur wildflower enthusiasts, we counted 22 wildflowers along the 1.7 miles of the trail that we traversed. It was easy hiking and pleasant hunting. I can only imagine what the remainder of the 80 trail miles holds in the way of wildflower wonders.

Turk's Cap Lily

References, Resources, Activities & Suggestions

Researching an 80 mile long State Park might seem a bit daunting. But there are a host of references and resources to guide you. The single best source to plan a venture on the GRT is the “Greenbrier River Trail” brochure published by the West Virginia State Parks system. In addition, here’s a listing of some informative GRT websites: The West Virginia State Park system Website. The Pocahontas County Convention and Visitor Bureau maintains a very useful site at Website; and a new website, maintained by the Greenbrier River Trail Association, is online at Website. These websites post maps, and contain listings of trail resources such as nearby grocery stores, lodging, outfitters for bike and canoe rentals, shuttles, and guided fishing trips. Also check the “Pocahontas Nature Club” Facebook Page for activities such as their annual Wild Edibles Festival. While on Facebook, check out “The Friends of the Greenbrier River Trail,” too, and learn more about the annual Great Greenbrier River Race, which includes a 3-mile Run,  a 4-mile Paddle, and a 10-mile Pedal. (Facebook Page). 

Tall Coreopsis

Last, but not least here are two things to bear in mind: 1) Poison Ivy grows along the trail, too, so keep a close eye out for it, and 2) Please don’t pick the flowers. Well that’s the long and the skinny of the Greenbrier River Trail. There’s plenty of fine outdoor fun for everyone. So enjoy! 

Greenbrier River Trail: Part One

Can you imagine a West Virginia State Park about 80 miles long and only 100 feet wide? If so, then you have pictured the Greenbrier River Trail State Park, which has the distinction of being both the longest and the skinniest State Park in West Virginia. It is long and skinny because it is a former railroad bed that has been converted into a trail. Previously part of the Greenbrier Division of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway (C&O), trains carried freight and passengers along the banks of the Greenbrier River in Pocahontas and Greenbrier Counties for nearly 80 years. But when the line became unprofitable in the 1970s, C&O eventually donated the corridor to the state in 1978. By 1980 the old railroad bed had been authorized by the State Legislature for public use as a rail trail according to Jody Spencer, Park Superintendent. Gail Hyer of the Pocahontas County Convention and Visitors Bureau noted that the trail suffered damage in the flood of 1985 that wasn’t fully repaired until 1994. More damage occurred in the flood of 1996 that took three years of restoration. The flood of June 2016 also damaged the trail. Repairs are now underway, and the trail is gradually being restored.

Pocahontas Conv. Bureau

Nationally Recognized

Despite the setbacks, the Greenbrier River Trail (GRT) has not only survived; it has thrived. Today the GRT is one of West Virginia’s most successful and popular rail-to-trail conversions. Backpacker Magazine ranked the GRT as one of the top ten hiking trails in the United States. Moreover in October 1999, the GRT became one of 50 of the Nation’s Millennium Legacy Trails. Selected from nominations by the governors of the United States and its Territories, these trails reflect the essence and spirit of our nation.

Pocahontas Conv. Bureau

A Recreation Gateway

Running 80 miles down the spine of the Allegheny Highlands of West Virginia, the GRT sports unique recreational opportunities in the State. The trail traverses 30 bridges and two tunnels and is a gateway to some of West Virginia’s most refreshing scenery. The trail passes through the Monongahela National Forest; Cass, Watoga, and Droop Mountain State Parks; and Greenbrier and Seneca State Forests.  With 19 trailheads scattered along its length, the trail can be broken into dozens of short hikes, either round trip or one way. There are a few primitive campsites along the trail, for those who want to take a few days and traverse the entire length. Sources of drinking water and toilets are scattered along the route, as are grocery stops. Lodging at State Parks, local motels, privately-owned cottages, and bed and breakfasts is also available along the trail. It is little wonder that the trail is busy with bikers, hikers and horseback riders. As GRT follows the banks of the Greenbrier River through rural Greenbrier and Pocahontas Counties, the river meanders in a wide, shallow, gravel-lined bed that comforts the eye and in summer, invites fishing, wading, canoeing and paddle-boarding. The trail surface is primarily ¼” crushed limestone and electric-powered chairs and scooters are permitted for disabled use only.

Photo by Drema Morgan

But Wait, There’s More!

The GRT is undoubtedly one of the best hiking and biking venues in West Virginia. But a closer look at the GRT reveals that there’s much more to being a traveler along this long and winding road through our State. For my wife, Phyllis, and me the main attraction is wildflowers. From the first bloodroot of spring to that last blossom of fall, we search the state for wildflowers and their hang-outs. The New River Gorge is a haven for spring wildflowers, but by summer we turn our attention elsewhere to maintain the hunt. Last July, on a tip by our friend Drema Morgan, a WV South writer and photographer, we headed out to the GRT. She reported seeing a Turk’s cap lily on the southern end of the trail. That was enough to send Phyllis and me out the door and down the road. After downloading a trail map, we decided to start at the North Caldwell trailhead at milepost 3. From Beckley it was an easy drive on I-64 East to Exit 169 at Lewisburg. From there we drove north on US 219 for ½ mile, turned east onto Brush Road (Rt. 30), then, after ½ mile, continued onto Stone House Road (Rt. 38) for another three miles to the trailhead.

Turk's Cap Lilies

My next blog will have more about wildflowers on the GRT. Click here.