Six Waterfalls of the Midland Trail

“The Midland Trail is more than a road; it’s a virtual history book. Originally a crude pathway worn by buffalo and the early pioneers, it stretches from White Sulphur Springs westward to Kenova, zigzagging along rivers, over mountains and through lush valleys. Along the way it touches just about every aspect and time period of West Virginia’s story—coal mines and chemical plants, Civil War battlefields and historic churches, ancient Native American burial mounds and African-American slave quarters” (Highway to History, by James E. Casto).

To celebrate this historic road, I’ve chosen to highlight some of the waterfalls that line U.S. 60 from just east of Gauley Bridge to Charlton Heights. Some of these waterfalls, like Cathedral Falls, are well-known landmarks. But most are smaller and lesser known seasonal waterfalls that flow best in the winter and spring months during periods of rain and thaw. Although they don’t run all year long, when in season, these waterfalls are as pretty as any the State has to offer. So starting at Cathedral Falls and running west on U.S. 60 here are photographs of six waterfalls along the Midland Trail.

Cathedral Falls

Cathedral Falls

Cathedral Falls is located at a roadside stop a mile east of Gauley Bridge on US 60. This is one of the premier waterfalls of West Virginia. Lucia Hyde Robinson mentions in her Forward in West Virginia Waterfalls: The New River Gorge, a book of waterfall photography by Randall Sanger and me, that Cathedral Falls might have been named by her father, the renowned West Virginia photographer, Arnout Hyde, Jr. That would be fitting because more than any single individual, Arnout Hyde, Jr. popularized the natural beauty of West Virginia.

Hidden Falls

Hidden Falls

Lying on Laurel Branch, Hidden Falls is about a half a mile west of Cathedral Falls on U.S. 60. To be sure, this waterfall seems unimpressive, if visible at all, from the highway--thus the name Hidden Falls. But there are pull-offs on the river side of the highway for parking, and the hike up to the falls is short. Your hike will be rewarded by a waterfall with a single vertical drop of about 60 feet. Hidden Falls has the distinction of being the last waterfall in the New River Gorge. Just a half a mile downstream, the New River merges with the Gauley River to become the Kanawha River. In addition to being the last waterfall in the Gorge, it just might be the tallest, too. 

Riggs Branch Falls

Riggs Branch Falls

Another hidden, but very attractive waterfall lies on Riggs Branch just off of U.S. 60 about a half a mile west of the Glen Ferris Inn. There’s a large parking area on the river side of the road just before the highway crosses the railroad tracks. This is the safest place to park since the shoulders of U.S. 60 are quite narrow and the highway is close to the rail line at Riggs Branch. The falls at Riggs Branch are protected in a narrow cove in the sandstone cliffs near the road. 
The watershed for Riggs Branch is even smaller than that of Laurel Creek, so the best time to visit is definitely in late winter or early spring. Although not as tall as the waterfall at Laurel Branch, when the water is running well, Riggs Branch Falls are very photogenic. Half way down its vertical plunge, the waterfall strikes a hollowed out ledge in the sandstone cliff. Hitting this ledge, the water is thrust up and out before making the last vertical descent into the plunge pool. The effect is striking and dramatic making it a wonderful waterfall to photograph.

Seasonal Falls

Seasonal Waterfall

Just 2000 feet south of Riggs Branch Falls lies an attractive seasonal waterfall. Its watershed is small, so it’s best to catch it after a very heavy rainfall or several days of steady rain. Nevertheless, when the creek is full, the waterfall is quite pretty. It stair-steps over several sandstone ledges as it descends to the Kanawha River. It’s easy to find as a large pullout is right at the falls. 

Lower Wall Falls

Wall Falls

About a mile south of the previous waterfall on U.S. 60 and just before the town of Charlton lies a waterfall I’ve dubbed the “Wall Falls.” At the head of the waterfall is a wall about 20 feet high constructed of stone blocks. Although I’ve asked, no one yet has been able to tell me why the wall was built. It does form a retaining wall for the creek crossing of an old road that sits atop the wall and perhaps that’s its purpose. The watershed for this falls is quite small, so you have to also catch it in periods of heavy flow.  If you climb to the top of the wall, at Wall Falls, you’re treated with a second waterfall that descends in stair-step fashion over a substantial drop. So the Wall Falls are really two waterfalls in one. 

Upper Wall Falls

This brings our tour of the waterfalls of the Midland Trail to a close. These seasonal waterfalls along U.S 60 are at their very best in late winter and early spring. When winter seems to be its dreariest, I suggest you take a drive along the historic Midland Trail and visit these beautiful waterfalls

Five Waterfalls of the New River Gorge

Nestled in the steep slopes of the New River Gorge are hundreds of rugged waterfalls. These waterfalls are fertile ground for nature lovers offering challenging hikes and striking landscapes. Having published a photo book of the waterfalls of the New River Gorge, I’d like to share five of those waterfalls that really stand out. 

Cathedral Falls

Let’s start with picturesque Cathedral Falls, which is located on US Highway 60 one mile east of Gauley Bridge, WV. Since the falls are located at a roadside rest stop, access is easy. You can literally step out of your vehicle and start photographing the falls. Descending 60 feet in a series of three dramatic drops within a large semi-circular rock amphitheater, Cathedral Falls is as photogenic as they come. Easy access generally means plenty of visitors and photographers, so you have to be patient and creative to get a photograph. To eliminate people in the foreground, I generally work my way around the left side of the rock amphitheater for close-ups of the falls. 

Cathedral Falls

Turkey Creek Falls

The next waterfall is only six miles down the road. From the parking lot at Cathedral Falls, turn left onto US Highway 60 and drive to Hawks Nest State Park. From the State Park Lodge take the tram from the cliff top down to Hawks Nest Lake. From the tram station pick up the Fisherman’s Trail, which skirts the northern shore of Hawks Nest Lake. A pleasant 0.8 mile walk along the lake ends at the falls on Turkey Creek. This waterfall is best photographed after some heavy summer rains. At full flow the falls split into three segments at the top, which merge in the middle and split again into three segments at the base. Total drop is about 35 feet. 

Turkey Creek Falls

Fern Creek Falls

The next stop is one of the classiest and most unique waterfalls in the Gorge. Starting at the parking lot at the Canyon Rim Visitor Center, turn right out of the lot and drive 1/10 of a mile. Make a very sharp right hand turn, and proceed downhill another 1/10 of a mile to the junction with Fayette Station Road. Turn left and go yet another 1/10 of a mile to a pull out on the right-hand shoulder of the road, which is the trail head parking. It’s only a mile to Fern Creek Falls, but the trail is rocky and uneven. Indeed the path is merely a bushwhacked trace forged by rock climbers seeking access to the base of the cliffs that rim the uppermost portion of the Gorge. Although the trail forks from place to place, if you hug the base of the cliffs, called the Endless Wall, you won’t go wrong. The trail ends at the falls, so you can’t miss them. 

Flanked by the 60 foot high Endless Wall, Fern Creek Falls epitomize a New River Gorge waterfall—rough and rocky. Fern Creek Falls are really two falls in one. During average runoff, the falls are confined to a deep, vertical cleft in the cliff. At high water, the best time to visit the falls, part of the waterfall shoots over the cliff edge and plunges for about 50 feet into a pool below. 

Fern Creek Falls

Wolf Creek Falls

The next waterfall is just across the Gorge. From the Fern Creek trailhead parking, backtrack and drive down Fayette Station Road, which goes under the New River Gorge Bridge, winds down the side of the canyon, and crosses the New River at Fayette Station Bridge. After crossing Fayette Station Bridge, drive one mile to the second hairpin curve in the road. There’s parking in the curve for the Kaymour Trailhead. Wolf Creek parallels the road at this point and is well named. It’s a untamed torrent that charges down the slopes of the New River Gorge like a wild animal. 

Not surprisingly, Wolf Creek Falls are rough and rugged, too. They aren’t visible from the road, so most visitors drive right passed them. The falls are below the road and a little downstream from the trailhead parking. Walk downhill on the outside edge of the switchback in the road until you notice a few indistinct paths dropping down to the creek. These lead to Wolf Creek Falls. Be forewarned; the descent is short, but steep, rocky, and choked with rhododendron. The bushwhack trail opens up halfway down with spectacular views of the falls to your right. Making your way to the base of the falls, you can enjoy the emerald-green plunge pool and vividly colored boulders. 

Wolf Creek Falls

Sandstone Falls

No tour of the New River Gorge waterfalls would be complete without a stop at Sandstone Falls. According to a database of waterfalls world-wide, Sandstone Falls rank 19th by width and 33rd by volume. In Hinton at the end of the bridge crossing the New River, turn right and take the River Road for 9 miles to Sandstone Falls. There are plenty of good viewpoints of the New River along the way, including a roadside picnic area at Brooks Falls, about half way up the road to Sandstone Falls.

Sandstone Falls are easily explored by a ¼ mile, handicapped accessible boardwalk that crosses two bridges and leads to islands and observation decks offering views of the falls. But for the finest views, it’s best to leave the boardwalk for a little off trail scrambling. Just a few feet before the end of the boardwalk, there’s a path leading to the right. It leads to a shallow water crossing and onto an island. At this point, I prefer to bear a little to the left and head toward the river bank. This takes you to two more small water courses that separate islands and puts you on the lead island that sits right in front of Sandstone Falls. The falls can be viewed along the full length of the upstream edge of the island, which is fortunate, because Sandstone Falls are not just one waterfall, but many. The main falls are more than 800 feet wide, average 20 feet high, and are composed of many segments of distinctive character. To me this is one of the most magnificent views in all of West Virginia. 

Sandstone Falls

Many more falls line the New River Gorge, but I hope these five whet your appetite for waterfall hunting in the Gorge.  Sandstone Falls   Marr Branch Falls
New River Gorge Waterfalls Photo Book   Ramsey Branch Falls   
Pipestem Falls   Elakala Falls   Brush Creek Falls

Hiking Long Point: A Doorway to a New World

If you’re looking for something unusual, exotic even, in a West Virginia landscape, Long Point is just the ticket. Long Point is a rugged promontory of sandstone that juts like a fortress into Summersville Lake, a 2800-acre impoundment in Nicholas County, West Virginia, just off US Route 19. During weekends in September and October, water is released from the dam into the Gauley River to provide plenty of white water and rapids for rafters and kayakers. The lake level is eventually lowered by 75 feet to its winter pool elevation of 1,575. The landscape below normal lake level is stunning, and hiking and exploring it will leave you awed. 

The Long Point Trail

The Long Point trailhead (GPS: Lat. 38.23387, Long. -80.86593) is located at an archery range near the Summersville Airport. Before you leave your vehicle, make sure you’ve packed a camera because you’re going to be rewarded with a visual feast! It’s an easy 1.8 mile hike out to Long Point as the trail gently undulates through the forest. It follows an old road for about a half a mile before branching off along a broad ridge that progressively narrows as you approach Long Point. The Corps of Engineers has placed signposts at ½ mile intervals, so you can easily measure your progress. 

Long Point

At the trail’s end a sign is posted saying: “Warning, Trail Ends Here.” It doesn’t. But it does mean that you have to be careful, for beyond the sign you’ll be near sheer rock cliffs and open fissures in the rocks. Don’t be put off by this. Just watch your step for the next 50 to 100 feet, and you’ll walk out onto the tip of Long Point. 

At the Point

Now it’s time to get your camera out. The promontory at Long Point once sat above a sweeping, horseshoe bend in the Gauley River. Now it stands as a castle surrounded by Summersville Lake. At the end of the point, you’re treated to a nearly 360-degree panorama of sky, rock, and water. 

Long Point

At this point, you will have been well rewarded for your efforts, but quite frankly the best is ahead. When you’ve soaked in all the scenery at Long Point, return to the sign marking the end of the trail. From the sign post pace off 150 steps along the trail away from the point. This should put you close to two small pine trees growing about a foot apart. Turn to the left and follow a “bush-wacked” trail–a path worn down by occasional hikers. It leads to a depression near the edge of the cliff. 

Descend in the Cleft

Now here’s where nature has been kind. The cliffs at Long Point are shear and steep, over 100 feet high, and normally only rock climbers could scale down to the base of them. But to the left of the depression you’ll find the head of a narrow cleft in the massive rock walls of the cliffs. This crevice is like an enclosed stairway which runs from the top of the cliff to the bottom. It’s easy to negotiate and not a bit dangerous. In fact, the rock walls surround you as you descend. 

Emerge in a New World

You emerge from the crevice at the base of the cliffs. If you’re visiting Long Point during low water levels between November and April, then hold your breath because you’re about to enter a landscape unlike any other in West Virginia. As you emerge from the crevice, perhaps the first thing you’ll notice are bold, beautiful, snow-white boulders of all shapes and sizes. The rocks are rough, angular, and piled chaotically. It’s like a scene from another planet or a lunar landscape. The rocks are brilliant white because they’re below the water level during the summer, and being submerged for so much of the year, they aren’t stained by the oxidation and weathering of iron-bearing minerals. So the rocks are in their most pristine state.

You’ll also notice tree stumps poking up between the boulders. The stumps were left when the Corps cleared the slopes of the lake in the early 1960's. Since all the soil has been winnowed away by the waters of the lake, the roots of the trees have been laid bare and resemble the arms of an octopus. The textures of the tree stumps are fascinating, too. The bark is gone, but the wood beneath is not rotten. Rather it’s dried, cracked, and desiccated and either chocolate brown or silver gray in color. In some ways, the environment below the water level at the lake resembles something out of the desert southwest. The rocks are bare and craggy, and the vegetation is sparse. If you didn’t know better, you might think you were in Arizona or New Mexico. It is truly a new world.

Hike Around Long Point

Even though the terrain is rough and rocky, with care you can hike through it. If you walk to the left (east), you’ll catch your first glimpse of Long Point towering above you. Long Point is naturally photogenic. This dazzling promontory invites photography. As you make your way around the promontory, it changes character, presenting new facets, and seems to pose for pictures–all striking and inspiring. 

Long Point

After rounding the bend below Long Point, double back and explore the ground just below the point. You’ll find arches, crevices, and a giant chamber enclosed by steep walls of stone. Once you’ve taken in all the scenery you can, make your way back to the cleft. You can’t miss it. It’s behind a huge pyramid of stone–a block of sandstone that’s fallen from the cliffs and now lies on its side.

Long Point

A Temple of Stone 

John Muir fell in love with Cathedral Peak in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California and wrote of it: “From every point of view it shows marked individuality. It is a majestic temple of one stone, hewn from the living rock.” Perhaps you’ll feel the same about Long Point. I do. 

New River Gorge Waterfalls: Award Winning Photography Book

What others are saying about West Virginia Waterfalls: The New River Gorge by Ed Rehbein and Randall Sanger. 

“More than 100 waterfalls grace the cliffs and canyons of the New River Gorge and its tributaries. This book invites you the savor this untapped wealth of beauty in two enjoyable ways—by viewing photographs of these waterfalls and by experiencing them for yourself. 

Laurel Creek Falls

“Photographers, hikers, and nature lovers Ed Rehbein and Randall Sanger have photographed some of the most beautiful places in the New River Gorge, plus—provided maps and information on how to visit each waterfall yourself. The pull-out hiking guide will keep you on the path to your own Appalachian Adventures.” Book Cover

Pirate's Cove

“The New River Gorge is such a beautiful place that it is often said photos don't do it justice. This photography certainly does. Ed Rehbein and Randy Sanger have successfully captured not only the beauty of these waterfalls, but the emotion and the majesty they impart. These two avid hikers have also provided all the information necessary should one want to experience any of these locations firsthand. Their book is a combination of breathtaking photography and informative yet succinct details. It belongs on the coffee tables of outdoor enthusiasts and fine art lovers everywhere.” Audrey Stanton-Smith, Former Editor, West Virginia South Magazine 

Turkey Creek Falls

“Every one of all ages can appreciate the sheer beauty of one of nature’s most delicate and breath-taking works of art, the waterfall. It wasn’t until I experienced these glorious masterpieces through the pages of “West Virginia Waterfalls: The New River Gorge” that I could truly appreciate the natural beauty of the Mountain State. The captions bring a vivid experience through the personal thoughts of the photographers as they make their way through the wilderness to the falls.  I could feel their heart-pounding anticipation as they began shooting the photographs. This book captures the whole experience of visiting these falls without leaving home!  I, for one, must dust off my hiking boots and get going!”  Karen G. Lilly  

Ramsey Branch Falls

 “Readers of Wonderful West Virginia magazine know the hallmarks of an Ed Rehbein outdoor adventure story: writing that conveys a deep reverence for nature and stunning photography. In this beautiful book, Ed and fellow photographer and nature lover Randall Sanger give readers not only breathtaking images of waterfalls but engaging and lyrical anecdotes about how they discovered and captured the views. Their stories of slippery slopes and treacherous descents are nearly as breathtaking as the falls! This rare volume, truly a labor of love, will soon have you packing a lunch and heading off to the New River Gorge.”  Sheila McEntee, former Editor of Wonderful West Virginia.

Turkey Creek

The Healing Power of Nature’s Beauty

“Beauty alone is a sovereign remedy against fear, grief, and melancholic fits.” Robert Burton

When my wife, Phyllis, and I were younger, our hikes were all about distance, pace, and destination. But over time our hikes became a journey and the beauty of nature became our pursuit. Wildflowers we once briskly passed over without a glance now captivated us. Time and again, as Phyllis and I explored terrain unfamiliar to us, we would be overtaken by the joy of finding and photographing a new wildflower or waterfall. I vividly recall holding my camera’s view finder to my eye while scanning the landscape of Dolly Sods in Tucker County, and thinking to myself, “This is more beauty than one soul can drink in!” I was enthralled by what I saw. The beauty of nature profoundly moved me. 

Dolly Sods

Long Lasting

But I found that the power of nature’s beauty ran deeper than a momentary thrill or an emotional rush. The soothing power of beauty in nature was long lasting and could be captured in photographs. I noticed this when I started taking prints of my photographs to business meetings that were likely to be long and stressful. Looking at scenes of nature’s beauty kept me calm before the meetings and refreshed me during them. Often the sight of a photo of nature transported me back to the time and place when the image was taken, which was both calming and refreshing. Peace and a pick-me-up, I learned, were embedded in the sight of nature’s beauty. 

Summit Lake

As I pondered the power of beauty in nature, I wondered if it was limited in scope to a few “nature lovers,” so to speak, or was its appeal more universal. To answer this question I turned to Social media.  The results surprised me in a pleasant way. 

A Facebook Survey

To find out if I wasn’t the only one who found comfort in the beauty of nature, I satisfied my curiosity in a non-scientific way by making the following post on my Facebook page called “Ed Rehbein Photography.” 

“I WOULD LIKE YOUR OPINION . . . about the impact on you when seeing beautiful images of nature. If you care to participate, just say in your own words if viewing beauty in nature has a positive, negative, or neutral impact on you... at the moment you see the image and any effects that linger after that.”
About 45 men and women posted their responses. Their answers were uniformly positive. Five themes emerged as I read all the posts and tried to summarize the reactions. 

Snowshoe Mountain

First, many said that looking at beautiful photographs of nature instilled feelings of peace, calmness, and tranquility. Moreover, the quieting effect was not merely momentary. For some people the effect lasted throughout the day. Others mentioned that to refresh the feeling of peace, they revisited the image in their mind’s eye or on their computer screen. 

Second, the images of the beauty of nature stimulated the senses such that the image depicted was experienced vicariously. One person wrote: “You can just hear the waterfalls, the wind in the trees and smell the clean fresh air.” 

Claypool Falls

Third, some said that the beauty of nature relieved stress. Looking at photographs of nature’s beauty could turn around a bad day or offer a window of relief—a momentary lifting of burdens. 

Fourth, images of the beauty of nature stirred pleasant memories. Since I only post photographs of landscapes, waterfalls, and wildflowers of West Virginia on Facebook and my internet sites, West Virginians living out of state were “carried back” so to speak to their home state by looking at these images. Via the images they were able to reconnect to pleasant times and places of their past. 

Germany Valley

Fifth, respondents reported that images of nature’s beauty help them to connect to the Creator of all things and acknowledge His presence and power. The images also stirred feelings of peace, gratitude, thankfulness, and awe. Observing the order and overall design of nature, many drew comfort that a transcendent power was in charge. The following post summarizes some of the feelings expressed by those who answered my Facebook question:

“My sons and I have always been nature lovers with waterfalls being our favorite. I see the images and feel like I'm there--or wish I were. I can almost smell the forest. The feeling lingers and brightens my day. I give them second and third views during the day and save some for future viewings. They make me want to explore more of WV. They give me a peaceful feeling.”

Blackwater Falls

In West Virginia we are blessed with an abundance of natural beauty. I hope we will take every advantage of it to help us lead more peaceful and healthy lives.

Ten Tips on How to Photograph Waterfalls

As a photographer, I am frequently asked this question: “How do you get that ‘flowing water’ effect in waterfalls?” It’s not difficult if you have the right equipment and a little “know-how.” Here are ten basic tips to help you take waterfall photographs.

Slow Down the Shutter 

The key to good waterfall photography is to slow down the shutter speed. I shoot most waterfalls at 1/4 to 2 seconds. At these shutter speeds, you’ll get the flowing water or motion blur effect. To capture swirls or eddies, you’ll have to go slower, say 5, 10, even 60 seconds depending on the speed of the water. On the other hands, to highlight flow details and texture, I shoot at 1/8 to 1/15 second. But there’s a catch to these slow shutter speeds.

Brush Creek Falls

Get a Neutral Density Filter

In normal daylight, when you manually slow down your shutter for waterfall photography, the image will over expose no matter how much you reduce the aperture or lens opening. That’s just the way cameras are made. But there is a way around this. It’s called a Neutral Density (ND) Filter. A neutral density filter absorbs light without altering colors. I generally use an ND4 or ND8 filter. The higher the filter number the more light is absorbed. With an ND filter on, I can easily slow down the shutter speed and still get a properly exposed image. 

Campbell Falls - 30 secs

Use a Polarizing Filter

When photographing water, it’s a good practice to use a polarizing filter, too. Light will reflect off a surface of water causing glare. A polarizing filter cuts glare off of water and even off of leaves or any other surface that’s reflecting light. Reducing glare helps produce more saturated colors, which improves image quality.

Pick a Cloudy Day

To reduce severe contrasts, pick a cloudy day to shoot waterfalls. Bright white water and dark shadows occur in direct sunlight. The contrast between the two is difficult, if not impossible, to handle photographically. Reducing exposure to properly expose the bright water will result in overly dark shadows. And increasing exposure to capture detail in shadows results in over exposed and burnt out portions of the white water. A cloudy day reduces contrast and allows for proper exposure of both light and dark portions of the image.  

Set the Exposure to the Brightest Part of the Waterfall

Waterfalls are easily over exposed because they are generally the brightest portion of the image. Even within a waterfall, there are light and dark segments. With matrix (also called evaluative) metering, bright spots in the waterfall are likely to be overexposed in order to preserve detail in shaded areas. To set the exposure, it’s best to spot meter on the brightest part of a waterfall thus preventing any overexposure. 

Marr Branch - 1/4 sec

Choose the Lowest ISO Setting 

In keeping with slow shutter speeds, it’s best to choose the lowest ISO setting available. High ISO settings (high sensitivity to light) promote faster shutter speeds, which are not desirable for the motion blur effects in waterfall images. Conversely, the lower ISO settings (less sensitivity to light) promote the slow shutter speeds that are desirable for waterfall photography.

Use a Tripod

To remove camera shake at slow shutter speeds, always use a tripod. Below 1/60 of a second, some degree of movement is difficult to prevent if a camera is hand-held. This movement causes the whole image to be blurry, not just the water. A sturdy tripod will keep the camera stationary when shooting and produce clear, sharp images.

Shutter Trip

Even if a camera is mounted on a tripod, it’s still possible to induce movement if the shutter is tripped manually. To prevent this, always trip the shutter by a self-timer or remote device. 

Peters Creek on a Sunny Day 

Sunny Day Strategy

Shooting waterfalls on a cloudy day is not always possible. Sometimes the sun persists. If so, there is a way to shoot a waterfall on a sunny day. The key is to shoot the entire frame in full sun. An ND8 filter is necessary to cut down the bright sunlight. And as much as possible exclude shaded areas from the image. 

Foreground Interest

Include Foreground Detail

This tip deals with the esthetics, not the mechanics, of waterfall photography. In my experience a waterfall shot will be more pleasing to the eye if it has some depth. Prominent foreground helps create depth. Autumn leaves on rocks make good foreground as do channels of water downstream of the waterfall. A “bear paw,” an image of water rushing over a foreground rock (see example), is almost always a winner. So experiment when framing up an image of a waterfall and look for interesting foreground subjects. 

Sandstone Falls - Bear Paw

I hope these tips are helpful to you. They aren’t meant to be comprehensive, but should at least point you in the right direction.  

Scenery Below the Surface: Commercial Caverns in West Virginia

West Virginia is known for its panoramic mountain views, but it’s also blessed with scenery below the surface, too. Limestone caverns taking millions of years to develop are laden with stunning rock formations, ancient fossils, and local history. To sample the beauty beneath our feet, there four commercial caverns or “show caves” in West Virginia: 

Lost World Caverns in Lewisburg 
Organ Cave near Ronceverte 
Smoke Hole Caverns near Petersburg 
Seneca Caverns near Riverton

Each has its own claim to fame and offers guided tours to explore them. The tours follow well lighted paths and steps. Here are some things I’ve gleaned from my visits to the caves and from the internet.

Lost World - by Shery Meiresis

Lost World Caverns

Lost World Caverns, a registered Natural Landmark, claims to have one of the nation’s largest compound stalactites (30 tons) called “The Snowy Chandelier.” My most vivid memory is the impressive “War Club,” a 28-foot tall stalagmite. Bob Addis once sat on it for 16 days to establish a listing in the Guinness Book of World Records. Also impressive is the “Bridal Veil,” a lovely column of white calcite. At 1000 feet long, 300 feet wide, and 120 feet high, the main tour chamber is impressive. The cave is 120 feet below the surface and can be toured in about 45 minutes. 

For more adventure, the Wild Cave Tour is a guided excursion to remote portions of the cave to see sights such as the “Angel's Roost,” “Birth Canal,” “Keyhole,” “Glitter Pits,” and the “Hall of the Mountain King.” Website.

Organ Cave - Facebook Photo

Organ Cave

Organ Cave is the second longest commercial cave on the east coast and is a National Natural Landmark as well as a National Landmark of Historic Places. Indeed, Organ Cave is more than an assembly of stalactites and stalagmites, it is a living museum. For instance, the cave played a significant role during the Civil War. For three winters General Robert E. Lee hid as many as 1100 soldiers in Organ Cave. Church services were held in the “Chapel Room,” a cave chamber some 365 feet long by 90 feet wide. It is an impressive opening, and you can almost feel the history there. 

While Union soldiers roamed above ground, Confederate soldiers secretly mined in the cave for saltpeter, an ingredient in gun powder. In fact over 75% of the Confederate Army’s gunpowder came from Organ Cave. Today the cave has the nation's largest collection of Civil War-era saltpeter hoppers. The cave’s history may go back as far as 800 BC when Native Americans explored Organ Cave for flint for arrowheads. 

Among the formations you’ll see are a majestic organ, a frozen waterfall, and sponge beds. For adventurous caving, tours called Exploring Expeditions are also available. Website. 

Smoke Hole - WikiMedia

Smoke Hole Caverns

From smoked meat to moonshine, Smoke Hole Caverns has a colorful history. The caverns get their name from the Seneca Indians who smoked game in the front part of the cave. Smoke rising from the cave entrance attracted the attention of early settlers who named the place “Smoke Hole.” In the many secluded “rooms” of the cave, early settlers and Civil War immigrants cooked batches of corn whiskey. 

But there’s beauty here, too, in the many intricately shaped stalactites and stalagmites formed by water dripping or flowing from fractures on the ceiling of the cave. The “Room of a Million Stalactites” features the second highest ceiling of any cavern in the eastern U.S., towering 274 feet above the floor. From my visit there, I remember the world’s largest ribbon or bacon stalactite, a rare six-ton formation that has been rippled by gentle air currents that flow through the cavern. As an added attraction, Golden trout swim through the “Crystal Cave Coral Pool,” an underground lake.  Website.  

Seneca Caverns - Facebook Photo

Seneca Caverns

Seneca Caverns are located in secluded and scenic Germany Valley and are a National Natural Landmark. Here’s another cave that attracted the Seneca Indians, who, as early as the 1400’s, used the cave for storage and special occasions. The cave was rediscovered in 1742 by Laven Teter, a settler of Germany Valley. Seneca Caverns was opened to the public for tours in 1930.

The largest room inside the cave is Teter Hall, which is 60 feet tall by 60 feet wide. Seneca Caverns also boasts the state's largest flowstone formation. Website.

Tips for visiting caves. 

The main thing to remember about visiting a cave is that they are a cool and consistent 55 degrees. So wear warm clothing. Also wear a pair of sturdy shoes or hiking boots as the way is sometimes wet.

Seven More Wonders of West Virginia

Recently I posted on my blog about “The Seven Wonders of West Virginia.” For such a scenic state, seven is too few. I can think of seven more wonders of West Virginia that need to be mentioned. This is a list of “must-see” sights in West Virginia, five natural and two man-made. Some are well-known, others not so much. From north to south, here they are:

8. Blackwater Falls
9. Spruce Knob
10. Highland Scenic Highway
11. Beartown
12. New River Gorge Bridge
13. Babcock State Park
14. Hanging Rock Raptor Observatory

Blackwater Falls

Blackwater Falls

Blackwater Falls State Park is located in the Allegheny Mountains near the town of Davis in Tucker County. After meandering leisurely through Canaan Valley, the Blackwater River at the state park picks up pace, takes a breath taking 62-foot leap, and begins a wild and tortuous eight-mile rush down the Blackwater Canyon. It’s one of the most photographed sights in West Virginia drawing nearly a million visitors a year. The falls are accessible from steps, boardwalks, and platforms on the north side of the river and a wheelchair accessible viewing platform on the south side. This is a wonder you don’t want to miss. 
Website: Blackwater Falls

Spruce Knob

Spruce Knob

At 4863 feet in elevation, Spruce Knob in Pendleton County, is the highest point in West Virginia. The peak is also the highest point of the Allegheny Mountains and Appalachian Plateaus. Good gravel and paved roads from three directions converge on the top. For driving directions check this link: Spruce Knob.  A short hike to a one story observation tower yields panoramic views to the west. For great views in other directions hike the half-mile Whispering Spruce trail which circles the knob.  

Highland Scenic Highway

Highland Scenic Highway

The Highland Scenic Highway is the highest-elevation major highway in West Virginia. Beginning in Richwood of Nicholas County as State Route 39/55, the road runs 21 miles east, following the valley of the North Fork of the Cherry River to Kennison Mountain and then on to the Cranberry Mountain Nature Center. But the part I want to highlight is the 23-mile portion called State Route 150. It begins at the Cranberry Mountain Nature Center and crosses the spine of the Allegheny Highlands before terminating at U.S. Route 219, about seven miles north of Marlinton. Four scenic overlooks with picnic shelters provide gorgeous views of the surrounding ridges and valleys of the Allegheny Highlands. Forming the eastern boundary of the Cranberry Wilderness Area, the Parkway also provides access to four wilderness trailheads. 
Website: Highland Scenic Highway

Beartown State Park

Beartown

This smallest of the scenic wonders is packed with curiosity. Nestled in the hills of Greenbrier County, Beartown State Park is a 107-acre natural preserve perched on the eastern slopes of Droop Mountain seven miles south of Hillsboro on U.S. 219. Rocks, picturesque and beautiful, are the main attraction at Beartown. Composed of the Droop Mountain Sandstone, these rocks have been carved by time and the elements into angular boulders, rounded stones, and narrow crevices. The crevices cris-cross the area dividing the bedrock into large stone islands. To preserve the natural beauty of Beartown and make it more accessible, boardwalks and wooden steps wind through the rock crevasses. The intersecting crevices resemble streets, and the stone islands look like city blocks. Couple this with a natural habitat for bears in the clefts and caves, and you have the name Beartown. 
Website: Beartown State Park

New River Gorge Bridge

New River Gorge Bridge

Although not a natural wonder, the New River Gorge Bridge is acclaimed world-wide and surely belongs on a list of must-see sights in West Virginia. At 3,030 feet long and 876 feet high, it is the longest steel arch bridge in the Western Hemisphere. Opened and dedicated on October 22, 1977, the span has since become the symbol of West Virginia appearing on the back of the State’s commemorative quarter. Trails, walkways and stairs, and a visitor center help you learn about and explore the bridge. You can even take a guided tour of the cat-walk that runs beneath the bridge. On Bridge Day, the third Saturday in October, the bridge is closed to vehicular traffic and open to pedestrians. What’s more extreme sports enthusiasts are allowed to BASE jump and rappel off the bridge. Over 100,000 people have attended the festival making it the largest gathering in the State and the largest extreme sports event in the world. 
Website: New River Gorge Bridge

Babcock State Park

Babcock State Park

Mention Babcock State Park and most people immediately think of the grist mill. And why not? The Glade Creek Grist Mill is one of the most photographed sights in West Virginia. You’ll find pictures of the mill at Babcock on calendars and postcards, in magazines and travel brochures. The grist mill is a great ambassador of travel and tourism for southern West Virginia. Indeed more than 200,000 people visit Babcock every year. The grist mill at Babcock is really three mills in one, which were salvaged from around the State–the Stoney Creek Grist Mill near Campbelltown in Pocahontas County, the Spring Run Grist Mill near Petersburg, and the Onego Grist Mill near Seneca Rocks in Pendleton County. Parts of each mill were disassembled piece-by-piece and reassembled on Glade Creek in Babcock. The reconstruction was completed in 1976. As mentioned in the Babcock State Park Brochure, the mill is a “living monument to the over 500 mills which thrived in West Virginia at the turn of the century.”
Website: Babcock State Park

Hanging Rock Raptor Observatory

Hanging Rock Raptor Observatory

Balanced atop a 3,812-foot-high peak in Monroe County, the Hanging Rock Raptor Observatory (HRRO) has much to offer—unsurpassed vistas coupled with a unique opportunity to observed raptors in the wild. It deserves to be on every nature lovers bucket list. On top of Peters Mountain on the Eastern Continental Divide, the HRRO has a 360 degree unobstructed view of the mountains and valleys of southern West Virginia and Virginia. Fifty miles to the east, the Peaks of Otter on the Blue Ridge Parkway are visible. Looking north, Cold Knob and the Beech Ridge Wind Farm in Greenbrier County, though 40 miles distant, are clearly seen. And the verdant valleys of Sweet Springs and Potts Creek stretch out for miles on either flank of Peters Mountain. Though the views are truly telescopic, there’s more to see at Hanging Rock. It’s a raptor observatory after all. On a good day more than 500 migratory hawks can be spotted. Rarer but still seen are eagles, ospreys, and falcons. 
Website: Hanging Rock Raptor Observatory