Pipestem Falls: Making a Come-Back

For 20 years, I drove within yards of beautiful Pipestem Falls, yet knew nothing of them. The falls weren’t on road maps or in tourist guides. The Internet provided scant information and very few photos. To add to the mystery, it was obvious that at one time these falls were a roadside attraction. A broad, grassed-over parking area, a weather-beaten picnic table, an overgrown trail, and a worn trailside fence mutely testified that Pipestem Falls was once a popular destination.

Lower Pipestem Falls

But that’s all changed now. The roadside parking has been improved; a road sign marks the falls, and brush obscuring the view of the main falls has been cleared. Pipestem Falls has made a come-back. 

Lower Pipestem Falls

To find Pipestem Falls (GPS: Lat. 37.5478, Long. -80.9596) drive 2.7 miles south of the Pipestem State Park entrance road on State Route 20. Look on the right for a broad, grassy area on the inside portion of a long curve. Parking is easiest at a wide, graveled patch at the downhill end of the parking area. 

Upper Pipestem Falls

Pipestem Falls are really four waterfalls strung together. The first three are about six feet high and form the upper falls. The lower or main falls is about 30 feet high. To view the upper three falls, take the trail leaving the uphill portion of the parking area. Here Pipestem Creek runs over several shale riffles and sandstone steps in a somewhat open bedrock basin, before taking the main plunge below. The main plunge cannot be seen from this trail, but a view from the parking area has been cleared. 

Upper Pipestem Falls

If you’re willing to do a little bushwhacking, the main falls can be seen by descending a short, indistinct trail down to the creek bottom that begins at the lower end of the parking area. A rocky scramble upstream will reward the avid waterfall hunter with a close-up view of these lovely falls. Once neglected it’s great to see these waterfalls make a come-back. 

America’s #1 Hike: The Endless Wall Trail

What’s the best National Park day hike in America? It’s right here at home in West Virginia. In 2015, USA Today readers voted the “Endless Wall Trail” of the New River Gorge National River as the #1 National Park day hike. A panel of experts picked the initial 20 nominees, and the top 10 winners were determined by popular vote. The trail beat out prestigious contenders from other National Parks across the U.S such as Cadillac Mountain - Acadia National Park, Kilauea Iki Trail - Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hoh River Trail - Olympic National Park, Ramsey Cascades - Great Smoky Mountains National Park, The Narrows - Zion National Park, Bright Angel Trail - Grand Canyon National Park, Angels Landing - Zion National Park, Upper Geyser Basin - Yellowstone National Park, and Highline Trail - Glacier National Park. Wow, what a list! 

View from Diamond Point

Those of us in West Virginia know how beautiful our state is, but it’s quite an honor to be recognized by readers across the United States. If you’d like to hike the Endless Wall Trail, you can start from either of two trailheads on the Lansing-Edmond road. The Fern Creek parking area (GPS: Lat. 38.06298, Long. -81.05682) is at a dip in the road about 1.25 miles from its junction with US 19. The trail follows a gentle, forested path along Fern Creek for about a half a mile where upon you cross Fern Creek on a nice foot bridge and begin a short ascent to the cliff tops. Upon reaching the top of the grade, you’ll see a sign marking the Fern Point Overlook. Take this side trail for a fine view of the New River Gorge.  

Idol Point--Endless Wall Trail

As you continue on the Endless Wall Trail, look for slightly worn paths to the right. These mark access points to other stony clearings and ledges that overlook the gorge. There are many such points, and all are worth your time, for each one gives you a different perspective of the New River Gorge as well as the massive sandstone cliffs that rim it. The cliffs range from 60 to 130 feet in height and are often sheer vertical to overhanging. They are unprotected in that there are no fences or ropes to prevent one from getting too close to the edge. So these overlooks aren’t for small children or for those who are afraid of heights. But if heights don’t bother you that much and you’re careful, you can really see the gorge as few people do.

Cliffs along the Endless Wall

Diamond Point is about 1/3 of a mile from Fern Point. In my mind, it’s one of the premier viewpoints of the New River Gorge. I can honestly say that the view is breathtaking because the first time my wife Phyllis and I stepped out onto the rocky ledge overlooking the gorge, I gasped. I think you’ll be impressed, too. Diamond Point juts out into the gorge like a promontory. It offers a sweeping, almost 270 degree panorama, of the New River Gorge. It’s a great place to sit and admire the handiwork of the mighty New River, which at this point has carved a canyon nearly 1000 feet deep.

View from the Miner's Ladder

View from the Miner's Ladder

More about the Endless Wall Trail in future posts. 

Where are the Monarchs?

Have you noticed that there are fewer monarch butterflies than in years past? If so, you’re not alone. According to researchers, in the last 20 years the population of monarch butterflies in the eastern U.S. has declined by 90 percent. When Phyllis and I first started exploring Canaan Valley and Dolly Sods, we could count on joyfully chasing and photographing large numbers of monarchs in fields of goldenrod and aster. But not lately. It’s a big loss. 

Where are the monarchs? According to experts there are three main reasons for the monarchs decline: 1) Loss of breeding habitat in the Midwest, 2) Loss of wintering-over habitat in Mexico, and 3) Severe weather.

The primary reason seems to be the decline in milkweed plants in the monarchs’ breeding habitat in the Midwest. “The monarch cycles through 3-5 generations during the breeding season. Only the final generation migrates to Mexico. Monarch caterpillars feed exclusively on milkweed. Historically, the U.S. corn-belt has produced half of the monarchs that migrate to Mexico. However, milkweed habitat has been greatly reduced in the region due to” several factors (Elizabeth Howard). 

Milkweed plants in the Midwest cornfields are in sharp decline due to the use of genetically modified corn and soy beans, which are resistant to herbicides. Thus farmers can freely apply herbicides, which kill milkweed plants but do not harm the crops. Moreover, rising corn prices spurred by increases in biofuels has pushed farmers to till up marginal ground containing milkweed and cultivate more crops. 

Loss of wintering-over habitat is the second reason for the decline in monarch population. Migrating from their breeding ground, monarch butterflies travel up to 3,000 miles each fall to their wintering site in central Mexico. The winter sites are very concentrated. For example in winter 2013/2014, 78% of the population was concentrated in a single sanctuary (El Rosario). Being concentrated to a small area makes the monarchs’ habitat more sensitive to deforestation, which is an ongoing problem, as well as disease, fire, and bad weather.

Indeed, the third reason for the decline in monarchs is severe weather. A drought in Texas or a cold snap in Mexico can contribute to monarch mortality. For example, in March of 2016 a late winter storm in Mexico destroyed 100 acres of forest habitat by toppling trees in high winds and killing them with cold temperatures. The same storm froze to death more than six million monarchs, about 7% of the total population.

It would be a shame to see the monarch, the official State butterfly of West Virginia, continue to decline. For more information and what you can do for the monarch butterfly visit http://www.monarchwatch.org/ . 

The Grass Bald: Dolly Sods

In my mind one of the prettiest areas in Dolly Sods doesn’t have stunning rock outcrops or crimson colored heath like Bear Rocks. Don’t get me wrong. I love that part of the Sods. But I also love an area called the “Grass Bald.” 

The Grass Bald is a sweeping terrain covered with grass and dotted with a few trees. The grass, known as mountain oat grass, has a subtle silver to white cast that is soothing to the eye. The grass is also called Allegheny fly-back due to the way the lightweight stems “fly back” from the scythe in mowing. Perhaps this is why the grass undulates so gently in the wind. Whatever the reason, the sight of this grass softly swaying in the breeze is mesmerizing. 

Grass Bald on the Bear Rocks Trail

The grass balds cover flat, drier areas of the Sods. No one is quite sure why trees don’t occupy the grass balds. Most think the areas were naturally open prior to logging. Thomas Lewis, a surveyor writing in 1746, reported such an area during his explorations. Some think the climate might be too harsh and the grass too competitive with tree seedlings.

Grass Bald on the Bear Rocks Trail

There are a couple of trails that will take you to grass balds. The easiest way is the Bear Rocks Trail (TR522). About 1.5 miles from the trailhead, the trail breaks out of a forested slope and onto a flat meadow covered in grass. The grass bald continues along the trail for some distance. 

On the Bear Rocks Trail

Another grass bald is located north of Dobbin Slashing. To find this area take the Bear Rocks Trail one mile to its junction with the Dobbin Grade Trail (TR526). Turn right and follow an old railroad grade for about 3000 feet. Then look for an old road heading up a slight grade to the right. A grass bald covers the ridge top. 

North of Dobbin Slashing

With a sea of grass and a limitless sky of blue, a grass bald can capture your imagination. Like so many Dolly Sod landscapes, it’s a scene unlike any other in West Virginia. 

Dunloup Creek Falls

Just about everyone loves a waterfall. Fortunately in the New River Gorge, waterfalls abound. In our book West Virginia Waterfalls: The New River Gorge, Randall Sanger and I documented 120 waterfalls. And I know there are more. All waterfalls flow well in spring when there is plenty of water due to melting snow and thawing ground. But during the summer many streams shrink and waterfalls dry up. So in the summer where can you go in the New River Gorge to get your waterfall fix? 

Dunloup Creek Falls

One place is Dunloup Creek Falls (GPS: Lat. 37.9382, Long. -81.0977). It might need a little help from summer rains, but it has a sizable watershed that keeps the stream flowing even in summer. And it’s easy to find. From Glen Jean take the road to Thurmond. About 4 ½ miles from Glen Jean look for a wide pull off on the right hand side of the road where there’s parking for about three or four vehicles. 

Dunloup Creek Falls

The falls consist of a river wide drop of some 20 feet. Paths lead from the parking area to the top of the falls where you can explore the shallow waters that run across the sandstone ledge capping the falls. Paths also lead to creek level below the falls. Be careful; the wet rocks are slippery. If you enjoy waterfall photography, you’ll like Dunloup Creek Falls. You can get good compositions from above the waterfall. The best shots, though, are at creek level. Angular rocks and smooth flowing water make for some dramatic shots. 

Dunloup Creek Falls

Since the town of Thurmond is just two miles further down the road, it might make a good addition to a day-trip in the Gorge. During the early 1900s, Thurmond was a classic railroad boomtown built by swelling profits from coal shipments originating from local mines. The National Park Service has restored many of the old buildings and has turned the historic Thurmond train depot into a park visitor center.

Dunloup Creek Falls

Bear Rocks: Dolly Sods’ Sculpture

To me, the rocks that rim Dolly Sods have been sculpted into exquisite forms that resemble everything from humans and animals to abstract art. In a pamphlet about Dolly Sods published by the West Virginia University Extension Service, Norma Jean Venable wrote: “The boulders at Bear Rocks project from the stony earth as if placed by the hands of some ancient race of neolithic people.” This apparent element of intention or art in the rocks of Dolly Sods is intriguing and has led me to explain their origin in geologic terms. 

Among the interesting shapes at Bear Rocks are rounded, often water-filled, depressions of varying diameters and depths carved into the stone. These depressions are called weathering pits or gnammas (nam uhs), the latter a term borrowed from the Aborigines of Australia, who depend on the water trapped in natural rock bowls for survival.

A Large Gnamma at Dolly Sods

Gnammas are formed by a geologic process called differential weathering. For example, should just a slight rock weakness cause a small depression to form on a horizontal rock surface, water, seeking the lowest spot, will preferentially flow into it. Should the temperature drop below freezing, the water will turn to ice, expand, and break up the rock particles next to it, thus making the small depression just a little larger. The enlarged depression will attract more water, which, when turned to ice, will further expand the hole. In this way the process feeds on itself, and after repeated cycles of freezing and thawing, what was once a small depression will have grown into a full-fledged gnamma.

A Large Gnamma at Dolly Sods

Gnammas deepen and expand outward, which eventually limits their growth. If the outer circle of a gnamma reaches the edge of a boulder or rock outcrop, the bowl will be partially breached. Further expansion carves a larger breach in the side of the bowl. Eventually the bowl is destroyed leaving, U shaped openings and rounded columns. 

Breached Gnammas

Geologic studies show that gnammas can take thousands to tens of thousands of years to form. A study of gnammas in Portugal by David Dominguez Villar and others showed that, in general, the relative age of gnammas was best indicated not by width or even volume but by depth ratios. Without getting more technical, we can say that generally, the deeper the gnamma, the older it is.

Indeed, time is another key factor in nature's sculpting of rocks. Dr. Greg Hancock, professor of geology at the College of William & Mary, has studied the age of the outcrops on the east and west rims of Dolly Sods. He found that these rocks have been exposed at the surface for 60,000 to 240,000 years. That means that differential weathering has been gradually picking away at them for tens and even hundreds of millennia.

Above all, time is a fine hand. Over millennia, every subtle weakness in the rock, each small variation in rock composition, and even the slightest difference in natural openings are delicately but persistently magnified and accentuated. In the hands of time, weathering is a powerful tool, having carved the rocks of Dolly Sods into the intricate forms we see today.

Gnamma at Bear Rocks

Beauty Mountain in the New River Gorge

The most beautiful mountain in the New River Gorge is appropriately named Beauty Mountain. I realize that of all the lovely mountains that grace our fair state picking one above the others is quite impossible. But to me Beauty Mountain is the fairest of them all. When folks from out of state visit me and are looking for the best scenery that the New River has to offer, I take them to Beauty Mountain first. 

Beauty Mountain Looking Toward Diamond Point

Why? It showcases the New River Gorge like no other place. Beauty Mountain isn’t really a mountain in the sense that it rises as a peak above the surrounding hills. Instead, Beauty Mountain is an unbroken stretch of sandstone cliffs running along the rim of the New River Gorge from Short Creek near Edmond, WV, to Keeney Creek. Nevertheless, the cliffs of Beauty Mountain tower more than 1000 feet above the New River. These lofty cliffs offer the best and most numerous overlooks of the New River Gorge of any place I’ve seen. What’s more they are easily accessed along a bushwhacked trail some two-thirds of a mile long.

Beauty Mountain Looking Toward Keeney Creek

To get to the trailhead take the Edmond-Lansing Road off of U.S. 19 just north of the Canyon Rim Visitor Center. Drive 3 miles and turn right at the town of Edmond. After a half a mile turn right again at the Edmond Post Office. Stay on the paved road for 1.4 miles until you come to a “T” junction. This is the parking area for the trail (GPS: Lat. 38.045916, Long. -81.024442). 

Beauty Mountain

From the parking area follow the path a short distance to the cliffs where you will find numerous vistas of the New River Gorge. This is one reason why I like Beauty Mountain—the cliff side overlooks are plentiful and the access is easy. The trail is relatively flat with just a few ups and downs. 

Beauty Mountain

To see more of Beauty Mountain and savor more overlooks of the Gorge just follow the bushwhacked trails along the cliff side. There isn’t one trail, but many that separate and rejoin. My advice is have fun and explore the various trails, especially those that lead to the cliff side. After about two-thirds of a mile the trail fades out, but not before leading you to a host of breath-taking vistas of the New River Gorge.   

  Beauty Mountain

Ride to the top of Canaan Valley: The Bald Knob Trail

Where can you get the best panoramas of Canaan Valley?  The Bald Knob Trail in Canaan Valley Resort State Park is my first choice. From the top of Bald Knob you can get wide, sweeping views of the valley below. 

View from Bald Knob

To make it even better you don’t have to scale the mountain side on foot to get the view. Instead, the Bald Knob trail is unusual in that it begins after an exhilarating ride up the Canaan Valley Resort chairlift (GPS: Lat. 39.008589, Long. -79.437558). From the base at 3580 feet in elevation, the ride offers increasingly breathtaking views of the valley and surrounding mountains before ending at the mountain top at 4280 feet. That’s a boost of 700 vertical feet without taking a step!! Even if you don’t choose to hike the Bald Knob Trail, you’ve still soaked in a lot of scenery. 

Chairlift: Photo courtesy of Canaan Valley State Park

The road to the chairlift is directly opposite the main entrance to Canaan Valley Resort State Park. It’s a short drive up to the chairlift where you can buy tickets to the top. The cost is $7 for adults and $5 for seniors (60+) and juniors (6-12). The lift runs every day of the week from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The last tickets sold for the day are at 3:45 p.m. By the way, be sure to plan for cooler temperatures on the mountaintop.
  
At the end of the chairlift ride, the Bald Knob Trail begins. You start with a level hike through a dense forest. The tread is very rocky on this stretch of the trail. After a third of a mile, you burst upon a sunny meadow. At this point, the trail follows for about two thirds of a mile along a wide highland meadow created by a gas pipeline right-of-way. 

Bald Knob Trail

After a short ascent the trail tops Bald Knob, a grassy, treeless knoll standing at 4308 feet in elevation and about 1100 feet above the valley floor. Panoramas are open to the south and west offering some of the clearest and best views of the southern part of Canaan Valley and surrounding mountains. After enjoying the scenery at the top of Bald Knob, you have two options to return. There’s a trail down the mountain about a mile long that leads back to the chairlift parking. It’s steep and hard on the knees. 

View from Bald Knob

I prefer to hike back to the top of the chairlift and savor a leisurely and relaxing ride to the bottom. Either way you’ll come off the mountain delighted by the views from Bald Knob. 

An Explosion of Color: Highland Scenic Highway

Most people drive the Highland Scenic Highway for the scenery—and rightly so. There’s not another highway in West Virginia that offers such continuous vistas. Nevertheless, as the Parkway crosses high elevations, it creates and accesses some unique environs for plant communities. Wildflowers and meadows thrive in the abundant rainfall of the high country. Particularly in the summer months, I find as much to see and enjoy by the side of the road as at the vistas. Indeed, it seems as if the entire 23 mile length of the Parkway is lined with summer wildflowers, both common and rare. It’s like a narrow garden winding across the summits of the Allegheny Highlands.

So if you like colorful wildflowers, now’s a good time to drive the Highland Scenic Highway. It’s bursting with color, especially yellow. Starting at the north end off of US 219, Phyllis and I drove the Highway last Friday (Aug 19, 2016), and found large patches of wildflowers lining the roadway. 

It all started at the Red Lick Overlook where a wildflower garden sits in the center of the parking area. Wingstem, large coneflower, and Jerusalem artichoke were growing around the parking area.

   

Wingstem

As we drove south, patches of wingstem were particularly abundant.
We also spotted a large, half-acre patch of Jerusalem artichoke 1 mile south of the Red Spruce Knob trailhead. I’ve never seen so much of this gorgeous yellow wildflower in one place.  

Half acre of Jerusalem Artichoke

Jerusalem Artichoke

Jerusalem Artichoke

A stop at the Tea Creek Meadow highlighted teasel and lots of field thistle. We also saw fields of goldenrod just starting to bloom. Afterwards, we continued on the highway as it descended to the Williams River. About half way down, purple tall ironweed started popping up. With the sun shining on the stalks of ironweed, they took on a brilliant, neon glow. When they mingled with goldenrod, it was quite a colorful show. There was more tall ironweed on the side of the road as we ascended out of the Williams River.

 Field Thistle

Teasel

With the promise of more goldenrod to come, the Highland Scenic Highway is going to be popping with color in the next few weeks.

 Tall Ironweed

Back to the Blackwater River Trail: Canaan Valley

Where to you go hiking in Canaan Valley if you only have half a day? That was the question facing Phyllis and me last Thursday (Aug. 18, 2016). The answer was easy: the Blackwater River Trail of Canaan Valley State Park. As I wrote in an earlier post (Aug. 4^th), in my opinion this is the most scenic trail in Canaan Valley.

Instead of parking at the trailhead, we drove beyond it on a gravel road leading out of the golf course parking lot. The gravel road took us to a filtration plant and the location of our first photo op (GPS: Lat. 39.038629, Long. -79.456564). Here the Blackwater makes a lazy meander through the valley. Some teasel grows along the bank of the river making some lovely foreground for a landscape photo.

Blackwater Teasel

Blackwater Teasel

Next, we hiked west to join the trail. After hiking on the trail about 30 yards, we took a side trail down to the river’s edge. Here the Blackwater makes a sweeping “S” turn just about where a lone tree stands in stark contrast to flat, grassy meadows. It’s a picturesque scene worthy of many photos.

Blackwater River

Then we hiked about 1000 feet on a relatively straight stretch of river until we came to another sweeping bend. On this day we were fortunate; wildflowers were blooming in abundance along the river bank. Vervain, sneezeweed, St. John’s wort, and butterfly bush added colorful foreground accents to all the river shots.

 Blackwater in Bloom

Sneezeweed

To add to the beauty the cloud action was brilliant. All in all the Blackwater River Trail did not disappoint.